It’s a quick 4 hours north from Hoi An to historic Hue. Significantly larger, and definitely less picturesque, it sprawls on both banks of the Perfume River, a name which conjures up images of Hue’s imperial past. Chosen by the Nguyen dynasty as seat of their empire due to its geographically central position in the country, Hue’s greatest claim to fame is its imperial complex, known as the Citadel. As the heat continues to be punishing, we arrive at the main entrance shortly after 7:30am. The grounds are monumentally large, but aside from a short film in the central palace, there is precious little information about where to head, or what’s where. It is peaceful and green oasis, blissfully far from the madness of motorbikes and urban life. We wander through courtyards and fields of ruins and rubble—the Citadel suffered tremendous damage during the 1968 Tet Offensive, and reputedly was even napalmed—, down endless open corridors, climbing in and out of lost-looking pavilions, until we haphazardly discover a beautiful compound. A small sign explains that this is where the emperor’s mother lived—complete with temples, living quarters, a pleasure pavilion for recreation, and bordered in part by a pond which is filled with sound of shrill crickets. We stop for a glass of tea and to admire the various views. We retrace some of our steps, crossing the Citadel to the opposite side where we discover a small refurbished theatre which presents a short program of traditional court music and dance.
On our second visit(it’s too hot to stay all day the first round), we roam through the countless buildings that comprise the beautiful temple complex, with its renowned nine dynastic urns, each stunningly decorated. We watch the nicely choreographed traditional music/dance program and wander through the completely revamped gardens, discovering still more gates and complexes. The Citadel is really a gem, and worlds away from the mad rush of activity in modern Hue.
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