Chicago to Ho Chi Minh City (from now on HCMC!) with a brief lay-over in Seoul. Literally half a world away. Another continent, culture(s), language, food, time…. so time to shed at least some of our thick Western veneer, and dive into something new. We arrived at about 11pm, and after the visa formalities we cruise through immigration and customs and spill out of the packed terminal, looking for the ride we arranged with the hotel. Our man is waiting, rushes us to the curb and then says he'll be right back with the car. And we're off, speeding down wide avenues of urban sprawl, wondering if the airport is literally IN the city, but we're too exhausted to pursue any real, or at least logical thoughts. We're in the hotel within 30 minutes, and after the paperwork, we're off to bed. In the morning, we're awake incredibly early, but manage to head out to get ourselves situated.
Without question the most salient feature of the city is its thousands upon thousands of motorcycles. They race through the city in droves, weaving and swerving in all directions, loaded with all manner of people and goods. Crossing the street is an art we are required to master instantly, as without it, one can barely move in the city. Motorbikes regularly ride on the sidewalks, weave against the flow of the traffic, and traffic lights--when they are to be found--are largely ornamental, as there is absolutely NO guarantee that motorbikes will actually stop. (In all fairness, cars do mostly stop—luckily!)
We walk to the nearby Notre Dame cathedral, which is closed, check out the lovely interior of the colonial(and still working) post office, Uncle Ho Chi Minh smiles down on the hordes of locals and tourists checking out the place. From there, very slowly and patiently we make our way through the tornado of motorcycles zeroing in on the roundabout behind the church and head through some beautifully shaded avenues down to Reunification Palace. The palace is open to the public for a nominal fee and after perusing the tanks that originally stormed the palace in April 1975, it’s on to the palace itself, where we check out the larger ceremonial/reception rooms, and then sit in the gardens looking at pictures of the remainder of the building—too jetlagged to appreciate them in person. With a second wind, we wander out the “back door” of the palace grounds, and head on to what we discover is the “flower festival” that is standard for the Tet(New Year’s) holiday, which has just fizzled out after a week of what must have been intense activity. The gardens, usually set aside as a public park, have stunning displays of all sorts. The bonsai area is absolutely jaw-dropping, with huge scenes set on large stone or cement flats, with stunning flowering trees, rock islands, waterfalls, and traditional looking miniature figures sitting contemplating peacefully, or fishing. They’re like paintings come to life. Elsewhere there are pavilions with sumptuous orchids in beautiful purples and whites. There are displays made from fruits and flowers depicting, amongst other things, large snakes. It is, after all, newly, the year of the snake. Slowly retracing our steps, crossing streets with our hearts in our throats, we return to the hotel to escape the savage heat and take a needed nap.
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